When people think of Hokkaido, they often picture popular destinations like Sapporo, Niseko, or Hakodate. But just two hours west of Hakodate lies Esashi, a small coastal town that offers a rare look into Japan’s samurai past and fishing heritage.
With preserved streetscapes, samurai-era relics, and a peaceful atmosphere, Esashi is perfect for travelers who want to go beyond the usual tourist trail.
Step into History: Kaiyo Maru and the Final Days of the Samurai
In the late 1800s, as Japan faced civil war between the Tokugawa shogunate and imperial forces, Esashi became the northern frontier of conflict.
The Tokugawa’s flagship, the Kaiyo Maru—imported from the Netherlands—was anchored here, only to be lost in a fierce storm before battle. Today, a full-scale replica of the ship is open to visitors at the Kaiyo Maru Memorial Museum.
📍 Kaiyo Maru Memorial Museum(Link)
🕒 9:00 AM – 5:00 PM (open year-round)
💴 Admission: ¥500
📶 Free Wi-Fi available
👉 Exhibits are in Japanese, but translation apps work well. Don’t forget to check out the gift shop next door for local snacks and souvenirs.
The Town That Fed Japan: Esashi and the Herring Boom
During the Edo and Meiji eras, Esashi flourished thanks to its massive herring industry. In May, at the peak of the season, the town was said to be busier than Edo (modern-day Tokyo).
That era has passed, but you can still see its legacy in Esashi’s traditional architecture and cuisine—especially in dishes like herring soba.
Walk the Inishie Kaido: Esashi’s Historic Street
Across from the museum, Inishie Kaido is a beautifully preserved street lined with old merchant homes and warehouses. A walk here feels like time travel.
☕ Small cafés and snack stands line the route—great for breaks and people-watching.
Eat Like a Local: Where to Try Herring Soba
🍜 Plat Esashi – Best for casual visitors
Next to the Kaiyo Maru Museum, this spot serves herring soba, ramen, and curry made with local pork. Ideal for a quick and tasty lunch.
🕒 11:00 AM – 2:30 PM (April–October)
🍜 Soba Nagomi – Best for soba lovers
A local favorite, Nagomi uses 100% Hokkaido/Japan-grown buckwheat and makes their herring in-house. Calm, traditional atmosphere.
🕒 11:30 AM – until sold out (closed Mondays)
📷 No photos inside. Please respect the rules.
🚶 Both are within a 15-minute walk of the museum. Parking is limited—walking is easier.
Find Hidden Beauty in the Everyday
Esashi doesn’t offer flashy sights, but its charm lies in quiet moments: a curving beach, green hills with wind turbines, fishing boats at sunset. It’s a place where beauty blends into daily life.
Look for hillside spots with views over the harbor—and let the slower pace of the town surprise you.
Getting to Esashi
📍 Located in southwest Hokkaido, facing the Sea of Japan
🚌 Best accessed by car or direct bus from Hakodate
From Tokyo
✈️ Fly to Hakodate (~1.5 hr, ¥25,000–¥40,000)
🚗 Rent a car (~2 hr drive) or take a bus (~2.5 hr, ¥2,500)
From Sapporo
🚄 Train to Shin-Hakodate-Hokuto (~4 hr) → local train to Hakodate (~20 min)
🚌 Then drive or bus to Esashi (~2.5 hr)
⏱️ Total: ~6–7 hours | 💴 ~¥11,000–¥13,000
From Hakodate
🚗 Drive: ~2 hr | 🚌 Bus: ~2.5 hr | 💴 ~¥2,500
Tips for Foreign Visitors
- 🚘 Rent a Car
Public transit is limited. Renting in Hakodate gives you freedom to explore nearby towns like Matsumae and Kaminokuni. - 📅 Check Seasonal Hours
Some attractions close in winter—check opening times in advance. - 🌙 Stay Overnight
Evenings are the best time to enjoy Esashi’s historic streets without crowds. - 🏯 Learn the History
Knowing about Esashi’s role in the Boshin War enhances the experience. Some museums offer English pamphlets. - 🍽️ Try Local Herring Dishes
Nishin soba (herring soba) is a must-try—and more meaningful here than anywhere else. - 📱 Limited English Signage
Translation apps help. A few Japanese phrases go a long way. - 💴 Bring Cash
Many shops are cash-only. Get yen in Hakodate before visiting.
Plan a Trip Beyond Hakodate
If you’re already visiting Hakodate, don’t stop there. Esashi offers a unique blend of history, culture, and tranquility—just two hours away.
Walk the streets once bustling with merchants and samurai. Visit a life-size warship. Taste traditional Hokkaido dishes in a place where they truly belong.
👉 Need ideas? Check out our 1-day Esashi itinerary from Hakodate and make your journey unforgettable.
This article is based on the author’s actual visit and research in Esashi in July 2024.